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Incubator temperature and humidity

This is a discussion on Incubator temperature and humidity within the New Caledonian geckos forums, part of the Lizard Forum category; Hi folks, I'm wondering which temperature and humidity you use when incubating crestie eggs? I have some eggs in my ...

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    Incubator temperature and humidity

    Hi folks,

    I'm wondering which temperature and humidity you use when incubating crestie eggs?

    I have some eggs in my incubator, so far I've had total 5 eggs, one of them died, the other seems to be dry and kinda bad - same situation with two other.. The last egg is the only one I think is fertile since this one is from a female who never has laid eggs before (the other gal has always laid eggs even before she met the male) so I'm very interested in the last egg. Now, one-two weeks after it was laid half the egg has dented in quite a bit, but the other half has this "donut"thing and veins... Is there any hope for this egg?

    And since the "good" egg have a dent I assume the humidity is wrong, still it can't become better since the eggs are laying in an eggbox filled with water in the bottom... Or is it just normal for the eggs to have dents?

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    big tom's Avatar
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    I believe your issues may be stemming from newly bred females. It is common to have bad eggs from a virgin female. Their first season can be more spotty as far as good or fertilized eggs which should improve as the season progresses.
    If you are keeping the eggs in the mid to upper 70s and the incubation medium is not too dry or wet, you should be just fine.

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    I'm the ultimate in lazy about my crested eggs. I put some sphagnum moss in a plastic container, add some water, punch some holes in the lid, put the eggs in it, and toss it on a shelf at room temp. I check it every couple of weeks or so to see if it needs more water and that's it.
    If it doesn't roll when it walks it's not too fat!
    Chief Dietitian, Twin Cities Reptiles
    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Twin-C...08900315808444

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    Hmm, okay, but another question... What is your definition of "room temp"?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Genetics View Post
    Hmm, okay, but another question... What is your definition of "room temp"?
    At home it's about 73 with some flux, some days it's hotter, some days it's cooler and I let the eggs just sit there and take whatever variances. They never had a problem. At the shop it's probably about 76-78 and the same, they are not in a controlled area, they are sitting on a shelf so get some flux in temps. And they always hatch just fine as well. And thinking about it, the ones at home never hatched a whole lot later than the ones at the shop either, only a few days.
    If it doesn't roll when it walks it's not too fat!
    Chief Dietitian, Twin Cities Reptiles
    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Twin-C...08900315808444

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    Hmm.. Aha, well I have those temps at the day if I'm lucky but at night it may drop to 64.4... So I don't know if I dare to take them out of the incubator..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Genetics View Post
    Hmm.. Aha, well I have those temps at the day if I'm lucky but at night it may drop to 64.4... So I don't know if I dare to take them out of the incubator..
    Just me, I would, that's not cold enough where it's going to hurt them. Heck, last summer when it was really hot I put mine in the basement where it is about 58 or so and they hatched fine, just took longer. Big ol babies, too. But, like I said, that's just me and I sometimes will do things just because I am curious as to what will happen.
    If it doesn't roll when it walks it's not too fat!
    Chief Dietitian, Twin Cities Reptiles
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    Aha ! So I don't have to worry about the temps... Humidity is good so all I need now females who lay fertile eggs, and since they are virgins it can take a while. Thanks !

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    Quote Originally Posted by Genetics View Post
    Aha ! So I don't have to worry about the temps... Humidity is good so all I need now females who lay fertile eggs, and since they are virgins it can take a while. Thanks !
    Yeah, your first season with them can be frustrating for sure!!! I remember being almost in tears when I couldn't get mine to hatch, going bad right away or being bad to start with, even worse making it all the way through and then dying right out of the egg. How on earth could it be happening like that when everyone talks about how crazy easy it is? The answer was wait until next year and see what everyone was talking about. I did get some the first year, but the second year took off, third and then on was insane. You'll be totally fine!
    If it doesn't roll when it walks it's not too fat!
    Chief Dietitian, Twin Cities Reptiles
    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Twin-C...08900315808444

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    I have my first egg incubating now in vermiculite in a little container in a cooler, and temps have averaged about 75. A month in it still candles well and looks great, so keeping my fingers crossed.
    Dave Jenkins

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    The only thing that I do to help get better result from virgin females, is wait a little longer to breed them. It has been said that they can be bred at 9 months old but you should wait 12. My opinion is to wait until they have filled out. I have seen too many females that were bred early, IMO, and never reached full size. I see these females at shows, they look like subadults and are labeled as proven breeders. This same issue is really prevalent with the gargs. This is most likely due to a slower maturation when compared to the cresteds, and lets face it, alot of people are too impatient.

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    Quote Originally Posted by big tom View Post
    The only thing that I do to help get better result from virgin females, is wait a little longer to breed them. It has been said that they can be bred at 9 months old but you should wait 12. My opinion is to wait until they have filled out. I have seen too many females that were bred early, IMO, and never reached full size. I see these females at shows, they look like subadults and are labeled as proven breeders. This same issue is really prevalent with the gargs. This is most likely due to a slower maturation when compared to the cresteds, and lets face it, alot of people are too impatient.
    Dang, I wait too long, lol!!! I've waited until they are two.
    If it doesn't roll when it walks it's not too fat!
    Chief Dietitian, Twin Cities Reptiles
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sara View Post
    Dang, I wait too long, lol!!! I've waited until they are two.
    I'm right there with you Sara. You can't go wrong at two years. This is when they really attain their adult size and growth is limited beyond this stage.

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    Well.. The females I have with the male is at least 18months and both is at 40grams

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    Just curious, is the weight with or without tails?

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    With, so you can take off some grams perhaps...

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