Not sure if this is in the right section or not, didn't see where it would fit.

but what do you guys use for light boxes. I've always taken pics just on the floor, a table, or in the cage. some work, some don't. I've seen a lot of white boxes you guys use. Has anyone experimented with other backgrounds. I'm curious how a metallic black, or almost a mirror finish on the bottom and sides, with light at the right angle you may not get that much glare but still get a cool looking picture.

also what lights do you guys use. would a simple halogen work?

Lets see if I can answer some of your questions.

Here is my photo studio

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/southernwolf/Misc/Photo-Studio.jpg

as for the backgrounds... I go to wal-mart and pick up some of the reminents in the fabric section... you can get them for cheap (normally less than $2).

One things your gonna have to watch out for with the mirror (or glossy) finish is the bounce back from the lights... and you will have to set your apature to compensate for it.

as for the lights... I use the White flourscent lights... I have 40w, 60w, 100w bulbs... and I change them out depending on what Im shooting. If you plan on shooting leos or other nocturnals... then the higher wattage will keep them from opening their eyes. As for the halogen... it will prob put out tooo much heat.

any other questions... let me know and I will try to answer them to the best of my limited abilities.

any other questions... let me know and I will try to answer them to the best of my limited abilities.

Understatement from a humble man....:lol:

Mike I started using a barrs cage for the geckos and like the results, but I like Kevin's ideas alot...will make some of the bigger stuff a tad bit easier to get pics of.

Nice studio, wolf.

I got a question for ya. I am a novice when it comes to pictures. If you've seen any of mine then you know, LOL!

Part of that is my lousy camera. What kind of digital camera would you suggest for a newbie? Something not that complicated that will throw me for a loop but something I could take a decent pic of a herp with. I will be shooting indoors if that helps any.

Great post! I am in the same boat as V and Bassett. I am photo challenged.....

any other questions... let me know and I will try to answer them to the best of my limited abilities.

Bro you must be kidding! You post some of the best pics in BLBC!!!!! I wish I had 1/4 of your talent!!!!!!:master:

very helpful... thank you. now if only I get that camera I want for christmas and get rid of my crappy one.

ive never used one, i just snap the pictures of them in the cages or in my hands lol, but i guess to show it off for sale you would want it on a light background of some sort.

Thats a nice little tent. I really need to set one up. With only two lights do you get any shadows? Can there be too much light in a tent?

Thats a nice little tent. I really need to set one up. With only two lights do you get any shadows? Can there be too much light in a tent?

Yes. The light really should be diffused to make it more indirect lighting. Basically creating an even fill light. That's usually why when you see light boxes/tents a material like muslin (no Jas not Muslims! :lol:) is used in front of the lights. And that's why it's best to avoid single directional lighting, dual is better, but I think two side and one backlight would be best.

Understatement from a humble man....:lol:

Mike I started using a barrs cage for the geckos and like the results, but I like Kevin's ideas alot...will make some of the bigger stuff a tad bit easier to get pics of.

You will NEVER hear me say Im the best at photography... I try to improve upon my skillz every time I pick up the camera. I dont know who shot it... or even what kind of snake it is....but the lime green snake on the left side... is just awesome... what kind is it btw.

Nice studio, wolf.

I got a question for ya. I am a novice when it comes to pictures. If you've seen any of mine then you know, LOL!

Part of that is my lousy camera. What kind of digital camera would you suggest for a newbie? Something not that complicated that will throw me for a loop but something I could take a decent pic of a herp with. I will be shooting indoors if that helps any.

That would depend on how deep you want to get into photography... I would suggest maybe looking at the Fuji S1000... it will set you back about $200 and has an awesome macro function... once you switch over to super macro... it will focus down to about 1/2 inch away from the subject.... can you image the closeups you will get with this camera. It is also a 10mp camera with 10x optical zoom.

If you want to get into the DSLR realm... then Im partial to Nikons (although Canon has a macro lens (MPE-65) that Nikon cant touch) and I wouldnt get anything smaller than a Nikon D80 or D90.... the other ones just lack too many functions IMO.

Bro you must be kidding! You post some of the best pics in BLBC!!!!! I wish I had 1/4 of your talent!!!!!!:master:

Thanks... I push myself... and I am probably my worst critic. I will actually go to the local florist and pick up some flowers to practice some new techniques.... basically just spend several hours blasting away... and trying to come up with new (at least from me) points of view.

couple of examples

Instead of dead center... I have the main focal point low and to the right (almost in the corner) with just enough background around the edges to show off the red... at least IMO

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii139/kbnaturephotography/Flowers/0801ath018-WEB.jpg

I wanted to play with some backlighting.... but I couldnt achieve what I was after.... I had to stop the apature way down to keep from blowing out the highlights... and that made the front of the flower waaaaaay tooo dark. So I had to improvise :)

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii139/kbnaturephotography/Flowers/0801ros004RS.jpg

To achieve the above shot.... I needed to be an octupus... but I pulled it off. I used a 1w led flashlight to shine from the back thru the petals... and a 1w led flashlight to light up the front of the flower so it wasnt too dark. Since both hands were holding flashlights... I had to use the timer setting on the camera to take the photo.



Thats a nice little tent. I really need to set one up. With only two lights do you get any shadows? Can there be too much light in a tent?

Tent?? you lost me

I use a plastic container and the cloth is just for the background. That allows me to get creative... I actually have some sunflower photos with a leopard print background. As for the shadows... if you set the lights up correctly... and at roughly a 45* angle... you wont get any shadows... however shadows can add alot of character to a shot. (see the backlit daisy above)

I do have a diffuser that I can put in front of the lights if I need really soft light... but with just a 40w light... it really isnt overbearing with my setup... If I really want to flood the studio... I will put in 100w. Lets say Im shooting something dark colored... with a dark background... there wont be alot of light bouncing around... so I may bump up the wattage of the lights to compensate. Similarily.... with the white light boxes.... you dont need the high wattage... because the light gets bounced off the white walls.

I may eventually set up a white box like Chandler uses so I can achieve some of the "high key" lighting effects.... but it will be a while. I like being able to setup a semi naturalistics stage to photograph on. I have been collecting rocks, wood, substrates, etc... all for usage in the photo studio.

I have seriously considered setting up another one... and planting some grass for the ultimate naturescape shots. I figure if I put a small strip of mirror so it is only slightly taller than the grass...then in the photo it will look like the grass goes on forever and then goes OOF.

Mike I started using a barrs cage for the geckos and like the results, but I like Kevin's ideas alot...will make some of the bigger stuff a tad bit easier to get pics of.

And can be safer as well.... I have shot a 4 foot Timber Rattler in that studio. I actually used the lip on the side as a shield... and the only thing within striking range was the lens....

That would depend on how deep you want to get into photography... I would suggest maybe looking at the Fuji S1000... it will set you back about $200 and has an awesome macro function... once you switch over to super macro... it will focus down to about 1/2 inch away from the subject.... can you image the closeups you will get with this camera. It is also a 10mp camera with 10x optical zoom.

If you want to get into the DSLR realm... then Im partial to Nikons (although Canon has a macro lens (MPE-65) that Nikon cant touch) and I wouldnt get anything smaller than a Nikon D80 or D90.... the other ones just lack too many functions IMO.

.

I dont want to get deep. I just want to be able to take a picture of a lizard on a branch and not have it look like a couch on a giant hot dog.

The fuji S1000 sounds good. Thats about what I was looking to spend. The macro sounds great.

I have no idea what DSLR means but it makes me nervous. Im gonna check out the fuji.

Thanks for the help, Wolf!

Sorry... DSLR = Digital SLR.... basically they are the ones that you can change out the lenses on .... where as the Point and Shoot types your stuck with what you get.

The Fuji S1000 I think is considered a ProSumer camera... and has some of the functions of a DSLR (cant change the lenses) with the simplicity of a Point and shoot.

I have been doing business with this company for years.... and I am very happy to recommed them to anyone.

Here is the S1000 and it is currently $180... they have upgraded to a 12x optical zoom
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16830122149

Or you can step up to a S2000 with a 15x optical zoom for $230
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16830122161

I have one but sadly dont have anywhere that I can set it up and leave it so I dont use it to much :(. I generally just take pics of them in there cages or whatever..

I'll experiment around with a light box after finals get over. Christmas break I may be able to put something together.

heres a few pics I got without good lighting, I'd prefer to get nice looking pictures that look almost like a natural setting.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/bassett524/Gecko/Gecko%20gekko/P1010038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/bassett524/Gecko/stenodactylus/SpetriSMform2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/bassett524/tarantulas/Poecilotheria%20regalis/P1010035.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/bassett524/squirrel/P1010018.jpg

any picture I take more than a foot away ends up looking like crap though.

Awesome shots Mike....

This is my set up..... platform with project paper on it.... simple, but I wouldn't put spiders on it.... LOL

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s189/Da-vault/Misc%20Pics/100_5828.jpg

Southern Wolf,

I have a Nikon D70 with SB800 flash. If I setup a light box like yours, would I still use the flash?

Are the fluorescent bulbs you use just a regular bulb you get from Home Depot? What do you think of the new 10k daylight bulbs for this?

I'll experiment around with a light box after finals get over. Christmas break I may be able to put something together.

heres a few pics I got without good lighting, I'd prefer to get nice looking pictures that look almost like a natural setting.

any picture I take more than a foot away ends up looking like crap though.

That Tokay shot is very nice.... Now I know why it hurt everytime the little B@$$$$tard bit me. Lots of little teeth.

Southern Wolf,

I have a Nikon D70 with SB800 flash. If I setup a light box like yours, would I still use the flash?

Are the fluorescent bulbs you use just a regular bulb you get from Home Depot? What do you think of the new 10k daylight bulbs for this?

About the only time I use the flash now is when I cant use the lights. Im jealous... I wish I had the 800... Im stuck with the 600 that eats batteries like skittles.

I just use the spiral flourscents... and I get the white light ones from walmart (normally in a blue package). I havent seen the 10k bulbs.. but I will be looking for them now.

The good thing about my setup is... you can change to any type light that will screw into a standard socket. Thats one of the reasons I keep the 3 differnt wattages nearby.

If you can set your camera to where it doesnt flash and can set the exposure time... think of what you could do with a black light... or red light

I just gave myself and idea... now I gotta see how this will turn out :)

I have one but sadly dont have anywhere that I can set it up and leave it so I dont use it to much :(. I generally just take pics of them in there cages or whatever..

LOL... mine has a permanent home on the dining room table.... but I live alone... so I can do that :wamma:

one of the main problems I have is when I don't use a flash on my current camera the shots always come out blurry. its almost as if the shutter speed automatically slows. even if the camera is on a tripod or I use the remote, without the flash everything looks bad.

one of the main problems I have is when I don't use a flash on my current camera the shots always come out blurry. its almost as if the shutter speed automatically slows. even if the camera is on a tripod or I use the remote, without the flash everything looks bad.

You are correct... without the flash the camera automatically slows the shutter to allow more light in for the correct exposure... and thus the blurry photos because either the subject moved.. or the camera moved. There is only 2 ways to combat this.... add more light... or open up the apature.

You can use external lights to increase the amount of light.... whether its a 40w bulb or 100w bulb.

or

If your camera will allow you to change your apature settings manually (prob have to select the "A" or "AP" on the auto dial. In which case you need to change the f/stop number. Lets say it is currently at f/16... then in order to get in more light.. .you need to select a smaller number... say f/11, f/6.3, f/4 whatever it will allow you to go to. The smaller the number.. the larger the opening in the lens.

However.... when you open up the apature... you loose DOF (depth of field)... which means that only a small protion of the animal may be in focus.

I will use one of my photos as an example

The following photo was taken at a shutter speed of 1/60 and f/6.3 which was opened up all the way at 300mm. As you can tell... about the only thing in focus is the eye and face... everything else is OOF (out of focus)... now If I would have stopped down the lens (chosen a higher f/stop) then the whole body would have been in focus.... the drawback is that by stopping down the lens.. you create a smaller opening in the lens for light to travel thru... and thus you need more light to enter the lens.... IE either brighter lights or a flash.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii139/kbnaturephotography/Herps/Leos/LasVegasSunglow.jpg

This is the same basic pose... and the shutter speed was 1/200 and the apature is now at f/13.... you can see that more of the body is in focus. In this shot... I was using a SB600 flash.. and thus the higher shutter speed.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii139/kbnaturephotography/Herps/Leos/Lucy.jpg

In this photo... the shutter speed was again 1/200 and I had to stop down to f/20 to get the whole body in focus (once again using the SB600 flash)... the only part that is really OOF is the very back foot. Once again... when you stop the lens way down (go to a larger f/stop #) you have to supply suplemental lighting... Unless of course you are shootin a very bright object.. .like a sunset.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii139/kbnaturephotography/Herps/Leos/BellAlbino.jpg

If anything I have said is confusing or you not really sure of... please let me know... I will try to explain it better... I know that sometimes when you start talking about shutter speeds... in relation to apature.... in relation to exposure... it can get confusing.

That's a great post Kevin.... I didn't know any of that and I have the same problem as Mike does.... now to play around with the camera! :yourock:

Yes. The light really should be diffused to make it more indirect lighting. Basically creating an even fill light. That's usually why when you see light boxes/tents a material like muslin (no Jas not Muslims! :lol:) is used in front of the lights. And that's why it's best to avoid single directional lighting, dual is better, but I think two side and one backlight would be best.

Reading back over this thread... something else I want to comment on.

Jason is giving good advise here. And the key to the background light... it will really seperate your subject from the background and make it pop.... however you need to have some distance between the subject and background. Unfortunately... I cant say how much... Ive never used a background light on this small of a scale... only when shooting models.

That's a great post Kevin.... I didn't know any of that and I have the same problem as Mike does.... now to play around with the camera! :yourock:

There is one more setting that I forgot to mention... and it will prob confuse the hell out of some folks .... sorry.

If your camera will allow you to change the ISO setting... you can effectively get more light into the camera this way.

ISO setting on digital are similar to the speed rating of the older film days... ISO 100, ISO 400 etc.

One way to think about ISO.... is to think of it as a mesh filter. Now lets think of light as water. So with a smaller ISO (say ISO 100) the mesh in your filter has smaller holes.. therefore less water get thru the mesh (Ie.. less light gets into the camera. But if you bump up the ISO to say ISO 400 now the holes in the filter get larger... and more water gets thru the filter... (Ie... more light gets into the camera).

Like with the apature settings.. there is always a drawback. The higher the ISO... the more noise that will show up in the image. (In the digital world.. your looking a pixelation.. .in the film days... its grainy) Most camera's now days.. .you can go up to ISO 640 without any problems. On some of my wolf shots... I was shooting right at dusk... and I was up to ISO 800.

That is another way to get more light on the situation :)

Hopefully I dont have alot of folks going.... .what in the hell did he just say. :lol:

Im always more than willing to share what little I know... so if you have questions... feel free to ask.

I'll see what I can change, if I can't I'll hit you up with questions.... I'll probably sit here and re-read these tips as I mess with the camera tomorrow!

Great stuff! :yessir:

There is one more setting that I forgot to mention... and it will prob confuse the hell out of some folks .... sorry.

If your camera will allow you to change the ISO setting... you can effectively get more light into the camera this way.

ISO setting on digital are similar to the speed rating of the older film days... ISO 100, ISO 400 etc.

One way to think about ISO.... is to think of it as a mesh filter. Now lets think of light as water. So with a smaller ISO (say ISO 100) the mesh in your filter has smaller holes.. therefore less water get thru the mesh (Ie.. less light gets into the camera. But if you bump up the ISO to say ISO 400 now the holes in the filter get larger... and more water gets thru the filter... (Ie... more light gets into the camera).

Like with the apature settings.. there is always a drawback. The higher the ISO... the more noise that will show up in the image. (In the digital world.. your looking a pixelation.. .in the film days... its grainy) Most camera's now days.. .you can go up to ISO 640 without any problems. On some of my wolf shots... I was shooting right at dusk... and I was up to ISO 800.

That is another way to get more light on the situation :)

Hopefully I dont have alot of folks going.... .what in the hell did he just say. :lol:

Im always more than willing to share what little I know... so if you have questions... feel free to ask.


Great info!!!! :yourock:

I've always wondered how to adjust the setting and use different films. Thanks for the info!!!!

Awesome info, sadly I do not have an awesome camera, lol. in doing research for a new camera I actually read a lot of info on the apature and shutter speed. The ISO is all new infor and will hopefully be helpful when I upgrade. as for now I can't cnahge anything on my camera in those respects, I'm shooting with an old Olympus 400 I got six years ago or so simply because it was weather proof.

I'd been saving up for a rebel xsi or a d40 but a friend with a lot of geckos to offer took my camera money away.

I dont know anything about the Rebel xsi.... however the Nikon D40 does not have an autofocus motor in the camera body...you have to buy lenses with the motor built in... and thus the lenses are more expensive.

Southern Wolf,

What are the dimensions of your box?

I dont know anything about the Rebel xsi.... however the Nikon D40 does not have an autofocus motor in the camera body...you have to buy lenses with the motor built in... and thus the lenses are more expensive.

You can always focus with your hand, though.. Although I'm sure people don't like to do that nowadays. I've been using a bunch of my Nikkor lenses with the D40 that don't have the internal motor. I actually think they are better quality than some of the lenses they are putting out now.

Larry... I bought the 50 gal tub from walmart... not sure of the dimensions... I will try to remember to put a tape on it when I get home.

No worries. I'm going to Walmart to buy bulbs, so I'll check it out.

I tried cutting an 18 gal tub. It does not give enough room to manipulate the lights.

I haven't decided if I want to buy a tub and cut in or build one with muslin cloth.

I like the tub because I can put some sort of substrate in the bottom... and you cant do that with muslin.

I gave one of my herp buddies the same ideas... and he cut a hole in each side... and affixed the lights to the side of his tub. Me I prefer to be able to move them... so I can throw shadows if I want to.

one of the main problems I have is when I don't use a flash on my current camera the shots always come out blurry. its almost as if the shutter speed automatically slows. even if the camera is on a tripod or I use the remote, without the flash everything looks bad.

I use a Nikon CoolPics L1 and have the same problem if I'm not using a light source. I've found using just the red eye flash corrects it.

Southern Wolf,

I went to WalMart and bought 100w florescent bulbs and the 50 gal tub. I set it up with two lights in the front and one light on the top back. For some reason the pictures are coming out dark and yellow. I'm shooting with a Nikon D70. I shoot in aperture mode. The box is very well lit. The camera just doesn't seem to be picking up the light.

Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong?

I figured it out. It was the white balance.

I have to keep messing with this setup. I'm getting to many shadows in my pics.

Southern Wolf,

I went to WalMart and bought 100w florescent bulbs and the 50 gal tub. I set it up with two lights in the front and one light on the top back. For some reason the pictures are coming out dark and yellow. I'm shooting with a Nikon D70. I shoot in aperture mode. The box is very well lit. The camera just doesn't seem to be picking up the light.

Any ideas of what I'm doing wrong?

There ya go.... I think I still have mine set on auto... but you prob had to set it to floursent light.

As to the shaddows.... If you will fire your lights at approx 45* angle from the subject... and down from above... you shouldnt have any shadows... .unless they are directly under the subject. Post a pic... and I will see if I can help

also... if you plan to shoot leos... the 100w will be too bright.. .and they wont open their eyes.

I learned that the hard way.

Great... Thanks!

Larry.... go to chat

i will have to get started making one

There are always ringlights that work pretty damn good IMO when you cant get the lighting right with macro.

True... but the only prob with ringlights... IMO... is they make everything look flat because there is NO shadows anywhere.

Hey Wolfie,

Is this the camera you were suggesting to me? I want to make sure I get the right one. Could ya take a gander at it for me?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPej4Dtkwdk

I will have to check out the link once I get home... youtube is blocked here at work.

However here is a link to the Fuji I was talking about... I have done business with this company going on 8 years now... and I will continue to do business with them. Currently they have it for $170

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16830122149

I will have to check out the link once I get home... youtube is blocked here at work.

However here is a link to the Fuji I was talking about... I have done business with this company going on 8 years now... and I will continue to do business with them. Currently they have it for $170

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16830122149

Thank you very much. Thats all I needed, bro. Im all over it.

No problem.... they also have the S2000 that is one step up and has I believe a 15x optical zoom

No problem.... they also have the S2000 that is one step up and has I believe a 15x optical zoom

I think Im gonna go with the one on the link. It makes the one I have look like a toaster and it will more than do for what I have in mind. Any more features and my head might implode.

I think the only difference is the greater zoom... for when you want to get way off... but if your just shooting herps and closeups.. the S1000 will prob do good for ya

i use a canon powershot s5is and i love it im not a great camera guy by any means so its perfect for me it puts out a great snapshot without me really having to know what im doing haha