Varanus99
01-03-2009, 08:39 AM
Hey y'all.
Seems like ackie mania has hit the BLBC. Ive gotten some PMs and emails regarding them. I always like to address that stuff here since maybe some other folks might be interested.
So here are some ackie basics for ya. I know Ive discussed these topics before in more detail. This is the cliff notes version. Im gonna hit on some questions Ive gotten.
Yellow ackies, Varanus acanthurus brachyurus, are the ones I currently keep. They grow to be 16" to 24" and reach adult size in 1.5-2 years. Males get larger than females.
They will feed on the usual monitor fare. All manner of insects and small rodents. They will eat just about anything but I believe a diet of whole prey is the way to go. I feed roaches and rodents. You can supplement with a small amount of fresh ground turkey if you wish. It will do no harm but it should only make up a small % of the diet. You could also feed small birds like quail if you like. Aside from whole prey and a little turkey I wouldnt mess with anything else. Keep it simple. Stick to what works.
They are not snakes. They need to be fed more often. Hatchlings and juvies should be fed daily. As much as they will eat. You cant overfeed a baby monitor. Adults can be fed every day or every other day. I go every other day since my adults usually pig out and then arent really interested in food for 24-48 hours. Thats fine. I just make sure they have food when they want it.
An adult pair or trio could live in a 4x2 enclosure their entire lives. That would be the minimum and in truth they would prefer more space. They will utilize as much space as you give them and to really see them shine they need large cages. I go with 6' x 3' for a trio and Im content with that. And they seem to be as well.
They generally are not aggressive. But they are fiesty. None of mine are what could be considered mean but they wont flop on your lap for an hour like a bearded dragon. They are varanids after all. They are inquisitive, they will explore any new surroundings. And they dont like to be restrained. Handling them without restricting their movement too much is the way to go.
Ive never seen one use their tail as a weapon. They use it more as protection. When they enter a burrow they will curl their tail around the entrance in an effort to provide any would be predator a face full of spikes. But Ive never seen one tail lash like some other species. Mine dont hiss or puff up. They are pretty mellow as far as varanids go.
They are not shy like a tristis or even a young water. They very quickly learn where their food is coming from and will bum rush you when you approach the cage. If they are out basking and a human appears they usually wont run and hide. However sudden movements will of course startle them and cause them seek cover.
Im a big fan of deep substrates for varanids and these guys are gophers. Check my thread about substrates for more info. In short, about 10-12" of a sand/soil mix seems to work. Semi-moist but not soaking wet. If provided with a good substrate that does not collapse they will dig burrows. Way cool.
They like it hot. For adults I suggest a basking spot of 130-150 degrees and could even go higher. For hatchlings I go 120-130. Just a SPOT not the whole cage or even one whole side. Just one area large enough to cover the animals entire body (including the tail) is all that is needed. The rest of the cage by be various temps ranging from 90-100 on the hot side down to 75-80 on the cool end. A drop at night is not harmful but I wouldnt go much lower than 75.
I provide a day/night cycle. Some keepers leave the lights on 24/7. There is some debate about whether or not light cycling is required. Its just how Ive always kept my herps so I continue to do so.
I provide them witha water bowl although Ive never seen one drink from it. I *have* seen them lap up some water when I spray them. But I leave the bowl in there just in case they want it and it adds a little humidity to whatever area I put it in. Plus they love to run through it and fill it with dirt so idiot boy can go run and clean it for them. Its kinda like a game. As soon as I clean it they get it dirty. If its dirty they leave it alone. Spiteful little bastards.
Nice, tight hides are a must. They love to squeeze into tight spaces. I love Retes Stacks (All Hail) but cork bark flats and various other items can also work. As long as its snug. At least some of the hides should also be humid. Spraying under the hides periodically will help keep them moist.
When it comes to ackies and varanids in general the key is choices. Ill say this until Im blue in the face: Give them as many choices as you can and let them pick what they want. Choices of heat, humidity,hides, etc. The more choices WE make for them the worse off we, as keepers, usually are.
Now personality. Im biased, but these are my favorite lizards. Its everything cool about a monitor pint sized. Ackies are just plain fun. They are goofballs. They are always up to something. And keeping them in groups just adds to the mayhem. If you've ever seen one chase a cricket when it already has a cricket in its mouth you know what I mean :D
Ok I think I covered what I wanted to cover in this post :yessir:
Seems like ackie mania has hit the BLBC. Ive gotten some PMs and emails regarding them. I always like to address that stuff here since maybe some other folks might be interested.
So here are some ackie basics for ya. I know Ive discussed these topics before in more detail. This is the cliff notes version. Im gonna hit on some questions Ive gotten.
Yellow ackies, Varanus acanthurus brachyurus, are the ones I currently keep. They grow to be 16" to 24" and reach adult size in 1.5-2 years. Males get larger than females.
They will feed on the usual monitor fare. All manner of insects and small rodents. They will eat just about anything but I believe a diet of whole prey is the way to go. I feed roaches and rodents. You can supplement with a small amount of fresh ground turkey if you wish. It will do no harm but it should only make up a small % of the diet. You could also feed small birds like quail if you like. Aside from whole prey and a little turkey I wouldnt mess with anything else. Keep it simple. Stick to what works.
They are not snakes. They need to be fed more often. Hatchlings and juvies should be fed daily. As much as they will eat. You cant overfeed a baby monitor. Adults can be fed every day or every other day. I go every other day since my adults usually pig out and then arent really interested in food for 24-48 hours. Thats fine. I just make sure they have food when they want it.
An adult pair or trio could live in a 4x2 enclosure their entire lives. That would be the minimum and in truth they would prefer more space. They will utilize as much space as you give them and to really see them shine they need large cages. I go with 6' x 3' for a trio and Im content with that. And they seem to be as well.
They generally are not aggressive. But they are fiesty. None of mine are what could be considered mean but they wont flop on your lap for an hour like a bearded dragon. They are varanids after all. They are inquisitive, they will explore any new surroundings. And they dont like to be restrained. Handling them without restricting their movement too much is the way to go.
Ive never seen one use their tail as a weapon. They use it more as protection. When they enter a burrow they will curl their tail around the entrance in an effort to provide any would be predator a face full of spikes. But Ive never seen one tail lash like some other species. Mine dont hiss or puff up. They are pretty mellow as far as varanids go.
They are not shy like a tristis or even a young water. They very quickly learn where their food is coming from and will bum rush you when you approach the cage. If they are out basking and a human appears they usually wont run and hide. However sudden movements will of course startle them and cause them seek cover.
Im a big fan of deep substrates for varanids and these guys are gophers. Check my thread about substrates for more info. In short, about 10-12" of a sand/soil mix seems to work. Semi-moist but not soaking wet. If provided with a good substrate that does not collapse they will dig burrows. Way cool.
They like it hot. For adults I suggest a basking spot of 130-150 degrees and could even go higher. For hatchlings I go 120-130. Just a SPOT not the whole cage or even one whole side. Just one area large enough to cover the animals entire body (including the tail) is all that is needed. The rest of the cage by be various temps ranging from 90-100 on the hot side down to 75-80 on the cool end. A drop at night is not harmful but I wouldnt go much lower than 75.
I provide a day/night cycle. Some keepers leave the lights on 24/7. There is some debate about whether or not light cycling is required. Its just how Ive always kept my herps so I continue to do so.
I provide them witha water bowl although Ive never seen one drink from it. I *have* seen them lap up some water when I spray them. But I leave the bowl in there just in case they want it and it adds a little humidity to whatever area I put it in. Plus they love to run through it and fill it with dirt so idiot boy can go run and clean it for them. Its kinda like a game. As soon as I clean it they get it dirty. If its dirty they leave it alone. Spiteful little bastards.
Nice, tight hides are a must. They love to squeeze into tight spaces. I love Retes Stacks (All Hail) but cork bark flats and various other items can also work. As long as its snug. At least some of the hides should also be humid. Spraying under the hides periodically will help keep them moist.
When it comes to ackies and varanids in general the key is choices. Ill say this until Im blue in the face: Give them as many choices as you can and let them pick what they want. Choices of heat, humidity,hides, etc. The more choices WE make for them the worse off we, as keepers, usually are.
Now personality. Im biased, but these are my favorite lizards. Its everything cool about a monitor pint sized. Ackies are just plain fun. They are goofballs. They are always up to something. And keeping them in groups just adds to the mayhem. If you've ever seen one chase a cricket when it already has a cricket in its mouth you know what I mean :D
Ok I think I covered what I wanted to cover in this post :yessir: