Hey guys, sorry for another question:

The new rack im building i plan on recessing the heat tape 1/8 of an inch so the tub doesn't rub over the tape and im using one strip of 4 inch heat tape per level. The tubs i use are the sterilite 41 quart tubs and they have a ridge going around the bottom of the tub that makes it so the tub does not lay completely flat. Will my tape still be able to get hot enough to create a 88 degree hot spot with the tape recessed 1/8 of an inch?

Thanks for the time everyone im hoping you guys have the answer for me!

Todd

Hey guys, sorry for another question:

The new rack im building i plan on recessing the heat tape 1/8 of an inch so the tub doesn't rub over the tape and im using one strip of 4 inch heat tape per level. The tubs i use are the sterilite 41 quart tubs and they have a ridge going around the bottom of the tub that makes it so the tub does not lay completely flat. Will my tape still be able to get hot enough to create a 88 degree hot spot with the tape recessed 1/8 of an inch?

Thanks for the time everyone im hoping you guys have the answer for me!

Todd
I think it will Todd. Some people don't recess their tape, but I've had a problem twice with flexwatt creating a hotspot and actually burning through a sterlite tub when it was sitting directly on the tape, so I don't do that anymore. The way I made mine, the tape lays on the shelf behind the tubs so it acts more like back heat than belly heat.

I think it will Todd. Some people don't recess their tape, but I've had a problem twice with flexwatt creating a hotspot and actually burning through a sterlite tub when it was sitting directly on the tape, so I don't do that anymore. The way I made mine, the tape lays on the shelf behind the tubs so it acts more like back heat than belly heat.

Thank you very much Shane!!

The racks i use right now have the tubs go directly on 11 inch heat tape that is taped down with foil tape, they are still working great but i just see a potential future problem of the foil tape pealing up over time and causing problems.

I was very concerned that i would build a new rack use the 4 inch heat tape that is recessed 1/8 of an inch and because the tape is now recessed and the tubs don't sit flat that i would not be able to reach my hot spot.

Shane if you don't mind me asking do you use 4 inch tape or 11 inch? If yours gets hot enough and its sitting behind the tub mine sure has to get hot enough with the tub sitting directly overtop!

As always thanks for your time, much appreciated!

Todd

Thank you very much Shane!!

The racks i use right now have the tubs go directly on 11 inch heat tape that is taped down with foil tape, they are still working great but i just see a potential future problem of the foil tape pealing up over time and causing problems.

I was very concerned that i would build a new rack use the 4 inch heat tape that is recessed 1/8 of an inch and because the tape is now recessed and the tubs don't sit flat that i would not be able to reach my hot spot.

Shane if you don't mind me asking do you use 4 inch tape or 11 inch? If yours gets hot enough and its sitting behind the tub mine sure has to get hot enough with the tub sitting directly overtop!

As always thanks for your time, much appreciated!

Todd
I use 4 inch flexwatt attached to a thermostat. I have it shut off at 85 and come back on at 80. The hotspots continue to get a little warmer after the thermostat goes off. My hotspots inside my tubs get to 86 at the peak. The flexwatt sits about 2-3 inches behind the tubs. So I think you will be fine.

You could recess it 3/16" or 1/4" into the wood then lay a strip of acrylic or glass over the heattape.

You could recess it 3/16" or 1/4" into the wood then lay a strip of acrylic or glass over the heattape.

that's another possibility....i would use glass over the acrylic as glass has poor thermal capabilities and would allow the transfer of heat better.

Pitoon

I use 11 inch flexwatt for 41qt tubs and 2 strips of 3 inch for 28qt tubs. I like to have around 25% of the tub for the hotspot. I recess it 1/8 inch and staple it down. I also solder that wire directly to the flexwatt instead of using the clips, it makes for a better connection.

I use a router to rout out a space 11 1/4 x 12 1/4 centered and about 2 1/2 inches from the back for the 41qt tubs. I rout a space 6 1/4 wide and all the way across the back about 2 1/2 inches from the back on 28qt tubs. I also rout a 1/4 inch groove for the wires to sit in so they aren't sticking up above the level of the shelf. I'll try to get some pics of some of my racks later today, so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.

I rout another groove under the flexwatt on one shelf for the thermostat probe, that way it can't get knocked around. Most of my racks are 2 to 5 degrees cooler because of this. I check temps with a temp gun and adjust the thermostat so it runs at the temp I need it. Herpstat 2's and Pro's let you adjust for this by changing the SM (sensor matching).

Todd. something I have found helpful when using flexwatt in routed spaces for the tape is to line the area under the tape with the foil tape mentioned above. Use a thicker foil instead of the thinner foil. It helps protect the melamine from excess heat and also reflects some more of the heat toward the tub. Good luck. tom harbin

I use 11 inch flexwatt for 41qt tubs and 2 strips of 3 inch for 28qt tubs. I like to have around 25% of the tub for the hotspot. I recess it 1/8 inch and staple it down. I also solder that wire directly to the flexwatt instead of using the clips, it makes for a better connection.

I use a router to rout out a space 11 1/4 x 12 1/4 centered and about 2 1/2 inches from the back for the 41qt tubs. I rout a space 6 1/4 wide and all the way across the back about 2 1/2 inches from the back on 28qt tubs. I also rout a 1/4 inch groove for the wires to sit in so they aren't sticking up above the level of the shelf. I'll try to get some pics of some of my racks later today, so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.

I rout another groove under the flexwatt on one shelf for the thermostat probe, that way it can't get knocked around. Most of my racks are 2 to 5 degrees cooler because of this. I check temps with a temp gun and adjust the thermostat so it runs at the temp I need it. Herpstat 2's and Pro's let you adjust for this by changing the SM (sensor matching).

...pics would be good!

Pitoon

Here's a pic of the 28qt set up. As I said before, I actually dado the shelf all the way across, but you could use a router also. I only use 1 foot of flewatt in 2 runs and center it on the shelf.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/artinscales/Caging%20and%20Display/007.jpg

This is the 41 qt set up. Here I do route the shelf, leaving the sides intact. You can somewhat see the groove in the back for the temp probe. It sits under the flexwatt in a recess and runs out the back of the shelf.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/artinscales/Caging%20and%20Display/012.jpg

Here is a pic of a different rack I made (66qt). It shows the temp probe a little better.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/artinscales/flexfinal002-1.jpg

I made a jig to route out the 41qt shelf, it's 4 pieces of wood screwed together. I use a 1 inch straight bit and measure from the edge of the bit to the edge of the router, in my case it's 2 1/2 inches, so I add 5 inches plus the dimension of the hole and make my jig so the inside of the jig is the dimension I need. Then put some wood on the bottom of the jig so it fits snug on the shelf and this aligns the jig. Route away.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/artinscales/Recessforflexwatt001-1.jpg

Let me know if you need more info or pics. I know some of this may seem confusing, but it's really easy once you get started.

If you get ambitious you can add switches to each shelf. I use neon rocker switches on each shelf except the probe shelf. I like it because when I walk in the room I know what the heat is doing. The switches actually dim with the proportional thermostat. Here's some pics of some of the wiring and the finished racks.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/artinscales/wiringrack003.jpg

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/artinscales/BREEDERROOM002.jpg

Thank you very much for the pictures!

I have got a lot of great idea's of what i need to do now!

Todd

Not sure how far along you are with your rack plans Todd but this may help you....

http://www.baileyreptiles.com/cb70rack.html

The plans are for CB-70 tubs,but could be very easily changed to use the tubs you plan on using as they are very close in dimensions.
I have made 4 of these racks just recently and am just starting the 5th now after the holidays.
I personally like how the heat tape is protected by the metal "shield", and so far the racks have been working very well for me.
If you would like additional pics I could take some while I am building this current rack